
Venerable British institution Fortnum & Mason, long known for their teas, biscuits, and “hampers” (essentially chic gift/picnic baskets), has finally made its goods available for order in the U.S. In perusing their new website, I found so many special, poetically-named condiments and foodstuffs (Strawberry Preserve with Champagne! Welsh Heather Honey!) it was difficult to avoid ordering every last piece. In the end, I decided on Scottish Golden Raspberry and Banana Preserves; I’m dying for the Clotted Cream Biscuits, but when I placed my order they were out of stock. Try the banana preserves spooned over a high-quality vanilla or dark chocolate ice cream; the golden raspberry tastes almost like honey, and is perfect on toast.
Of course, all of these treats would be amazing gifts, but it’s hard not to get greedy in the face of such temptation. If you find something amazing for yourself, be sure to let me know about it!

Pizzelles, Italian waffle cookies made in a special iron, are so much more than crisp, lacy nibbles. Although they’re delicious on their own, dusted with a bit of powdered sugar, try sandwiching two together with a layer of Nutella or jam (or both?). You could also increase the lemon zest in the recipe below and stick them together with a filling of lemon curd, or lemon-laced pastry cream. I like to roll them, still warm from the iron, into the shape of an ice cream cone and serve filled with gelato (Martha Stewart trick: put a mini marshmallow in the bottom of the cone before adding gelato to prevent drips).
Although it’s annoying to buy and store an appliance that only does one job, there are so many ways to reinvent the pizzelle that I think it’s worth it to invest in an iron. Check out Amazon or eBay for deals.
Basic Pizzelle Batter:
- 1 stick (8 tb) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 tsp lemon zest
- 2 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 3/4 cup flour
- 2 tsp baking powder
- 2/3 cup milk
- Pizzelle iron
Plug in pizzelle iron and let heat up. In a medium bowl, rub the lemon zest into the sugar until well-blended and lemony-smelling. In another bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder. In the bowl of a standing mixer, on medium speed, cream the butter and lemon-scented sugar. Add vanilla and the eggs one at a time, beating well between each. Reduce mixer speed to low and add flour in three parts, alternating with milk. The batter will be thin.
Drop one tablespoon of batter onto each cookie spot on the iron. Close the iron and cook until the indicator light tells you they are done. Remove to a plate. Repeat until batter is gone.
When all cookies are done, proceed to accessorize: dust with confectioner’s sugar, sandwich with a spread, etc. Or, if you’d like to make cones, simply roll each cookie into shape as soon as it is removed from iron.
Makes about 30 cookies.

I consider weekends to be prime dessert-eating time, and, as more often than not I find myself below Houston Street, I have done my share of due diligence on the downtown bakery scene. And so, after too many calories, frosting smudges, and crumb clumps to count, here are my unequivocal favorites: Continue Reading »

I’ve all but given up American-style yogurt; I now favor the thick, tangy Greek variety that is finally available in most supermarkets. It’s largely, but not solely, a taste issue: plain Greek yogurt not only has a more assertive flavor that melds well with fruit, granola, honey, and any number of other accessories, but it lacks the high sugar content, gelatin, and other additives commonly found in typical grocery store brands. Its bewitching texture comes from straining excess water from the mass, leaving a more intense flavor and a consistency similar to cream cheese.
Continue Reading »

Spy shot from Le Soufflé taken with camera phone
There are few things more quintessentially French than the soufflé. So, when in Paris…eat lots of them! You will find this particularly easy if you make a dinner reservation at Le Soufflé, a cozy, unpretentious nook on a tiny street in the first arrondissement. This is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach; one gets the sense that the waiters enjoy parading past carrying soufflé after puffy soufflé, incorporating an element of performance into grandly delivering and preparing the dishes at the table.
Continue Reading »
Following requests from readers, here are a few more pictures of the s’mores tart, in all its gooey glory.

Continue Reading »
Posted 20 April 2008 |
Baking
|