Big City, Little Kitchen

spy shot of brunch at les philosophes

For better or for worse, the majority of Paris is closed on Sundays. The downside is that the dining and shopping options are dramatically diminished; however, if you play your cards right, you can still have an excellent day, and not waste a moment of Paris-time.

The Marais, near the Pompidou Center, is one of the few areas in which most vendors stay open on Sundays. This offers the opportunity to have the ridiculous brunch at Les Philosophes, a restaurant on a beautiful stretch of rue Vieille du Temple. You might overlook it but for the always-crowded tables both indoor and out; this is clearly a neighborhood favorite. If the hosts can’t seat you right away, accept their offer for a table at the annex just around the corner, which has the same menu and a similarly charming decor.

If you are smart (and hungry), you will order the 19-euro, prix-fixe brunch, a comprehensive spread providing plenty of baked goods and a nice balance of sweet and savory. Begin with your choice of hot beverage; I would suggest a cafe creme. Take note of the orange juice, which truly tastes like the freshest orange you have ever had, and contains lots of fresh pulp (this is not the muddy stuff that lurks in the bottoms of jugs in the grocery store). Then dig into the bread basket, filled with slices of a classic wheat loaf and fig bread, and accompanied by a vessel of jam. Next is a basket brimming with croissants, perhaps the best I’ve had in Paris–not too crisp on the outside, with insides like buttery little clouds.

The next round is plain, thick yogurt, served in little metal dishes and topped with fresh melon and mango. Finally, the piece de resistance comes in the form of soft scrambled eggs (I am not usually a fan, but these were fantastic) heaped into a fluffy golden mound, and accompanied by a delicate tomato and cucumber salad. Burn some calories afterward by shopping in the nearby boutiques and French chains, or just get lost in the maze of picturesque streets; perhaps even pick up a sweet snack for later at the next-door bakery.

Les Philosophes

28 rue Vieille du Temple