Big City, Little Kitchen

For the serious baker (and by “serious” I mean obsessed with making and eating pastries and the like), I recommend Gina De Palma’s Dolce Italiano cookbook for its recipes, of course, but also for its instructional value.  You will learn so much from this book.  Doing a cursory flip-through, I was a bit intimidated; De Palma is, duh, a serious pastry chef.  There is a ton of information on technique packed into the recipes themselves, along with suggestions for wine or cheese pairings.  Also throughout the chapters are primers on flour, spices, chocolate, balsamic vinegar, and more.  Cultural background precedes each section; for example, the role of desserts in le feste is explained in the “Celebrations” chapter, fleshing out the “Italian-ness” of the book and providing context for the desserts themselves in the cultural landscape of Italy. 

These recipes are rustic but sophisticated in their simplicity.  Don’t be fooled by the lack of adornment on most; the flavors are complex and more than stand on their own.  I can’t wait to try the Sweet Grape Focaccia, and the plain, austere Venetian Apple Cake is out of this world.  I’ve made a few of the tarts (this is my favorite section), and the doughs are impeccable; tasty in and of themselves, crisp, and perfect foils for the fillings.  The Honey and Pine Nut Tart is like an infinitely-better version of pecan pie, essentially a thick, buttery milk-and-honey filling crowned with crunchy pignoli (please see my version, made with cashews, above).  The Chocolate and Polenta Tart, in a polenta shell flavored with lemon zest and vanilla extract, is surprisingly light, not overly sweet, and has a bit of a chewiness from the polenta bits folded into the chocolate filling.  Also worthy of mention are the chapters on spoon desserts, fruit, and fried doughs. 

My only issue with this book is the variety of moderately-hard-to-find ingredients, flour in particular.  Many recipes call for more than one kind, including, but not limited to, chestnut, semolina, and “oo,” an Italian flour that is a cross between all-purpose and cake flours.  I found this at an Italian deli, but you might have to order it online, taking away that exciting, instant-gratification rush that comes from already having everything you need to make a fabulous treat.  That said, I suggest placing an order online for everything not readily available, and going to town with this book.  I’m pretty sure you will love every recipe you try, as I have!